Hola a todos de nuevo.
Yo comencé mi andadura en este foro preguntándoos sobre la
longitud adecuada para fabricar mi primera pala groenlandesa porque tengo un kayak ancho (71 cm).
Hace tiempo leà un artÃculo muy interesante, sobre todo porque da un punto de vista totalmente distinto a las tÃpicas versiones de envergadura + codo hasta la mano, o estirar la mano sobre la cabeza y agarrar la pala, etc. Voy a poner aquà a continuación el artÃculo en inglés (para los que tengan ganas de leerlo) de este tipo, Capn Jimbo. En su página tiene otros artÃculos bastante buenos, a la vez que analiza varios kayaks (de pesca, poniendo a parir a los Tarpones de Wilderness, por cierto).
Para los que no queráis leeros el artÃculo en inglés, os lo voy a resumir rápidamente. Creo que puede interesar a los fabricantes profesionales españoles de groes.
Este tÃo defiende que la longitud de la pala no depende ni del ancho del kaya, ni de la altura, ni de la envergadura de palista, sino de lo que él determina “paddling distance†(distancia de paleo). La distancia de paleo es la distancia que nos separa del agua. A su vez, la distancia de paleo viene determinada por lo que llama “torso height†(altura del torso).
En resumidas cuentas, nuestra altura del torso (altura desde el culo sentados hasta los hombros) es lo que va a determinar la distancia al agua y por ende, la longitud de la pala. Interesante y novedoso concepto, ¿verdad?
El segundo factor que determina la distancia al agua, y del que este menda no habla, es la altura del asiento del kayak sobre el nivel del agua.
Creo que esa es la razón por la que en los kayaks sit on top como el mÃo necesitamos palas más largas. Si fuera como este hombre defiende, no es porque los kayaks sean (mucho) más anchos, sino porque estamos sentados mucho más altos por encima de la lÃnea del agua que en un kayak cerrado.
Aquà van los enlaces y el artÃculo éste en concreto:
http://ftlauderdaleyakfishingclub.org/myths.htmlhttp://ftlauderdaleyakfishingclub.org/yakdesign101.htmlhttp://ftlauderdaleyakfishingclub.org/reviews.html#7a I recommend at 230 (or 240)mm paddle!
This is one of the most debated and mysterious myths, and I'm still not totally satisfied with my position. But almost. This is one of the most recommended paddle lengths. If you ask the seller why, he'll either (a) lean back and look you up and down and say "yup, you need a 230", (b) stand the paddle on end and have you reach up to either touch the end or slightly over it or (c) tell you it has to do with yak width. There are even charts based on yak width which makes for a comfortable illusion.
It's gotten so bad that most retailers carry mostly 230's and even 240's. I believe this came about as part of a general trend toward longer narrower touring paddles that favored ease of use and lower paddling angles (for new paddlers) over performance. FYI this trend is changing back toward shorter larger paddles and for good reason.
Only (c) has any merit and only for the really wide yaks (say 34"), and you're not gonna buy one of those are ya? So what's the real skinny here? Let me start this way. Remember first that you are gonna do a lot of paddling, thousands of strokes every time you go out. Your whole enjoyment of the water and effectiveness as a yakfisher depend largely on this decision. So read this well:
Yak width means something, but not as much as you think (unless you paddle laying down). Torso height does (what's that, your retailer didn't use that term?). Simply that means how high your upper body and shoulders are above the water. Two people of the same height often have different torsos, sit higher or lower.
Torso height determines your paddling distance from the water. Yak width doesn't. Your height or reach doesn't. And paddling distance is what determines paddle length.
In my case, I have long legs, short torso, can use a shorter paddle. Other people of the same height may have short legs and a long torso, need a longer paddle to reach the water.
The other big factor is paddling angle. I use a 220 mm paddle and a more vertical style (which varies depending on winds and conditions). I could use a 250 mm paddle using a much more horizontal style. The Bending Branches chart says a guy of average size like me can use a 220 for low angle (more horizontal) paddling and a 200 for high angle (more vertical).
Last by far is yak width. Unless it's really wide. A couple of inches is of width is of little consequence. There will be little difference between say a 220 or 230 - both will clear the deck, and what little difference there is may mean a minor adjustment in paddling angle.
Now if you're really interested, one of the really hip paddlemakers has published a chart based on torso length (write for the link). But I'm not gonna publish it here cause the recommended lengths would scare you. Let me leave it at this. Unless you a very tall, have very long arms and also a very long torso, buy a 220. Truth is you could probably go shorter in many cases, but this is a good start. Here's why:
1. The 220 will cause a more vertical angle. Your yak will "track" better (i.e. you will paddle straighter).
2. The 220 will be a tad lighter, and easier to swing. Remember, thousands of strokes per day.
3. You will be able to tolerate a bigger blade, move more water when you have to.
4. It will better facilitate having your paddle "at-the-ready" (in your lap) when you fish, won't slap or get caught in the water.
Each of these is a subject in itself. No matter what go shorter. Fortunately the better yak shops are already recognizing this.